Theo Dancer Roc Breia Pinot Noir 2022

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Producer	Theo Dancer
Country	France
Region	Burgundy
Subregion	Macon
Varietal	Pinot Noir
Vintage	2022
Sku	30515
Size	750ml

 

WA

92

Roc Breïa is an exciting new project in the Mâconnais led by Chassagne-Montrachet's Théo Dancer. There has long been a domaine at this site in the hamlet of Bray, but its fruit was always sold to the négoce. When its owners wanted to sell, two investors decided to buy it—one of them being the courtier who used to sell the crop in the past. Dancer heard of the acquisition and went to see the vineyards; he immediately proposed to sign up as a consultant but only on the condition that he'd control the whole affair from A to Z, beginning with the farming and ending with the allocations. He took over on July 1, 2021, in the midst of a challenging growing season and has produced a fine debut vintage.

Dancer is already working to bring the soils back into balance, leaving cover crops and manually cultivating under the rows, so this will be a project to follow closely. In the cellar, winemaking is very simple: Chardonnay must ferments in used 500-liter barrels at its own pace, and Pinot Noir sees very gentle macerations with a certain percentage of whole bunch, similarly followed by maturation in used 500-liter barrels. Dancer then makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn't like from the final blend. There are only be two cuvées, a red and a white, both released as Vin de France to avoid treading on neighbors' toes.

Théo Dancer's 2022 Pinot Noir is rather deep and muscular this year, opening in the glass with aromas of plumy fruit and sweet spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and primary palate framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It's matured in used 500-liter barrels.